Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari

• The Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari derives its name from Karuppur, a village near Kumbakonam, Tamil Nadu.

• It is a luxury handwoven garment that combines hand painting, block printing, and brocade-weaving, which was highly popular up until the 19th century.

Historical Significance:

• The Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari evolved under the patronage of the Maratha ruler Serfoji Raja Bhonsle Chhatrapati II from 1787 to 1832 and was specifically crafted for the Ranis of Thanjavur.

• The weaving tradition dates back to 400-500 families who migrated from Saurashtra to Madurai, Salem, and Kancheepuram, establishing the artistry in the region.

Cultural Importance:

• These silk garments were traditionally worn only by the Thanjavur nobility and were often gifted as khillat (clothes of honor).

• In several Maratha states like Baroda, Kohlapur, and Satara, the Karuppur sari was an essential part of the bride’s trousseau, while the Karuppur turban was an important accessory for the groom.

Design Features:

• The design vocabulary of the Kodali Karuppur silk sari is limited but distinctive, featuring:

  • Geometric and linear patterns

  • Vine-like designs

  • Stars

  • Veldarri

  • Thazhambu (screw pine flower design)

Crisis Facing the Tradition:

• The Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari is currently facing a crisis as the number of traditional handloom weavers has dwindled significantly.

• Despite its rich heritage, the sari does not have a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which could have helped in preserving and promoting the traditional craft.

• The decline in weavers threatens the survival of this exquisite craftsmanship, putting a centuries-old tradition at risk.

Significance of the Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari:

• The silk sari is more than just a garment; it represents the cultural and artistic legacy of the Thanjavur Marathas and the skilled craftsmanship of Tamil Nadu.

• The current challenge highlights the need for preserving traditional arts and for initiatives that support handloom weavers to sustain their livelihood and skills in the face of modern challenges.

This rich tradition, though endangered, still holds immense value for both cultural heritage and craftsmanship, and efforts to save the Kodali Karuppur Silk Sari could help preserve a unique facet of Indian textile history