Cultural Appropriation

Cultural appropriation refers to the adoption of elements from one culture by members of another, often in ways that exploit, disrespect, or commodify the original culture. This becomes particularly problematic when a dominant group uses aspects of a marginalized group’s culture for profit or social gain without proper recognition, consent, or respect for its origins.

Key Elements of Cultural Appropriation:

• Adoption of Cultural Elements: This includes dress, art, language, rituals, or practices that are deeply rooted in a specific community.
• Power Imbalance: Typically, cultural appropriation occurs when members of a dominant group profit from the culture of a marginalized group without acknowledgment, respect, or compensation.
• Profit Without Consent: One of the core issues of cultural appropriation is that the culture being borrowed from is often not compensated for its contribution.

Examples of Cultural Appropriation:

1. Starbucks’ Golden Latte: This drink was marketed as a "golden milk" but is similar to the traditional Haldi Doodh (turmeric milk) from India, used in Ayurvedic practices.
2. Gucci’s Kaftan: Gucci’s floral embroidery on organic linen kaftans was strikingly similar to Indian kurta designs, raising concerns about the lack of recognition for the culture it was borrowed from.
3. Prada’s Kolhapuri Chappals: The Italian luxury brand Prada was accused of cultural appropriation for selling flat leather sandals resembling India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals, which are GI-tagged (Geographical Indication).

Reasons Behind Cultural Appropriation:

• Lack of Protection Mechanism: Intellectual Property (IP) laws were designed for individual innovation, not collective cultural heritage. This leaves traditional and community-based products vulnerable to appropriation.
• GI Tag Issues: While the Kolhapuri chappal has been granted a GI tag in India, GI protections are territorial, meaning they only apply in the country or region where they are granted. There is no automatic international GI protection, making it difficult to protect such products globally.
• Digital Marketplace Loopholes: Many platforms allow for the resale and reproduction of culturally significant products without proper oversight or respect for their origins.
• Lack of Awareness and Enforcement: Despite 10,000+ families in Maharashtra crafting Kolhapuri chappals, only a small fraction of them are registered under the GI framework, weakening the protection mechanism.

Ethical Dimensions of Cultural Appropriation:

• Violations of Kantian Ethics: Appropriating cultural expressions without consent treats the original community as a means to an end (profit) rather than as ends in themselves (with their own dignity and rights).
• Utilitarianism: The short-term gains for companies often come at the expense of long-term harm to marginalized communities, leading to the erosion of their cultural dignity, economic survival, and well-being.
• Erosion of Artisan Livelihoods: Cultural appropriation deprives artisans and local communities of the freedom, dignity, and economic opportunities to sustain their traditional crafts, violating Amartya Sen’s Capability Approach.

Impact of Globalization on India's Cultural Heritage

Globalization has had both positive and negative impacts on India’s cultural heritage.

Positive Impact:

1. Cultural Exchange: Indian cultural elements, such as classical music instruments like the sitar and tabla, have been integrated into Western pop and fusion music, leading to increased global recognition.
2. Global Recognition of Indian Art Forms: Practices like yoga, Ayurveda, Bollywood, and Indian classical music have gained significant global popularity, opening new opportunities for cultural exchange and international appreciation.

Negative Impact:

1. Homogenisation of Culture: Global entertainment platforms like Netflix and Instagram have created a unified global culture, often marginalizing traditional Indian arts and folklore, leading to their decline in favor of global trends.
2. Cultural Erosion: Traditional Indian attire like the saree and dhoti-kurta are increasingly replaced by Western clothing, contributing to a loss of cultural identity.

Kolhapuri Chappals: A Cultural Heritage in Danger

Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals with a long cultural history and traditional significance.

Origin:

• Kolhapuri chappals trace their origins to the 12th Century, during the rule of King Bijjal of the Kalachuri dynasty in Bidar district.
• They are closely associated with the work of Viswaguru Basavanna (Basaveswara), the Prime Minister during King Bijjal's reign.

Key Features:

• Distinctive Braided Leather Straps: The sandals are known for their intricate cutwork and braided leather straps.
• Durable Construction: These sandals are crafted from bag-tanned vegetable leather, using only vegetable dyes. This makes them eco-friendly and durable.

GI Tag:

• In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, offering legal protection to the craftsmanship of this region.
• GI tags help protect the identity and authenticity of products, but their effectiveness is limited outside the country or region where the GI is granted.

Conclusion

The Prada Kolhapuri chappal controversy underscores the need for stronger global IP protections and ethical business practices that respect marginalized communities’ cultural heritage and artisan livelihoods.