Phulkari

Recently, an exhibition showcased over 40 rare pre-Partition textiles that highlighted how Phulkari embroidery was deeply connected to women’s lives, traditions, and everyday culture in the region of undivided Punjab. These textiles demonstrate how phulkari functioned not only as an art form but also as a symbol of identity, heritage, and social customs.

About Phulkari

Phulkari, which literally means “flower work,” is a traditional embroidery style originating from the Punjab region, which historically included areas that are now part of Pakistan, Punjab, and Haryana in India.

The term Phulkari first appeared in 18th-century Punjabi literature, and some scholars believe it may have been influenced by the Iranian embroidery tradition known as gulkari.

Historically, phulkari embroidery was closely associated with family traditions and women’s craftsmanship, especially in rural Punjab.

Cultural Significance

Phulkari held an important place in social and cultural life, particularly in relation to marriage customs.

Traditionally, phulkari chaddars (shawl-like coverings) were an essential part of a girl’s wedding trousseau. These pieces were often hand-embroidered by mothers, grandmothers, and female relatives, sometimes beginning from the girl’s birth.

Young girls learned embroidery skills at an early age, and the number and quality of phulkari pieces often reflected the family’s social status and cultural pride.

Features of Phulkari Embroidery

Embroidery Style

Phulkari is a counted-thread embroidery technique characterized by neat, symmetrical patterns created through careful counting of fabric threads.

The embroidery often forms geometric designs and stylized natural motifs, producing vibrant and visually striking patterns.

Fabric Used

Phulkari is traditionally embroidered on khaddar, a handspun and handwoven cotton fabric. The fabric was usually dyed in deep colours such as:

• Madder brown

• Rust red

• Indigo

• Green

Threads and Designs

The embroidery uses brightly coloured silk threads to create intricate floral and geometric designs. These colourful threads produce a rich and textured visual effect on the fabric.